I love horses so thats why i put this video  

My very first blog post

Hi this is maeve holbrook and I am very excited because this is my very first blog post ever.

2+ Months in Canberra: Update for February and March 2013

At long last, I'm getting this blog more-or-less up to date.  I've been away so long that I'm going to wedge all the stuff we've done during the first 11 weeks of our stay in the Australian capital into one epic blog post.  I'll keep it brief for the most part and I should be able to stay up-to-date in the future.  In no particular order, here's what we've been up to...including the first photo on the blog that's actually taken by a family member.  (Now that I have access to Meghan's massive online photo library, I plan to switch out the photos taken by others for those of our own):

Lockie (the kangaroo), Maeve (the emu), and I (the star) doing our impression of the Australian coat of arms in front of Parliament House in March 2013.

• Parliament House Tour
• Prime Minester's XI Cricket vs. West Indies at Manuka Oval
• Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve
• Telstra (Black Mountain) Tower
• Belconnen Markets
• Belconnen Arts Centre on Australia Day
• Australian War Memorial (several visits, including one to see the movie Gallipoli)
• Costco, Woolies, Oporto, and Hungry Jacks
• Baseball for Lockie (both U10 and U12 teams including the U12 Grand Final game)
• Woden Valley Lightning U10 Soccer Tournament
• National Art Gallery Sculpture Garden Sunday Family Day
• National Museum of Australia
• Working out on the outdoor fitness equipment at John Knight Memorial Park on Lake Ginnindera
• SkyFire fireworks display on Lake Burley Griffin (including helicopter stunts)
• Long weekend on the South Coast (including Bateman's Bay, Moruya, Batehaven, and Broulee)
• Easter weekend on the Gold Coast/Lamington National Park (O'Reilly's Rainforest Retreat, Fingal Heads, Dubbo Gaol, and 16 hours of driving...each way!)
• BBQing and fishing at Lake Ginnindera
• The Village Festival in Glebe Park
• Farm play dates in Captains Flat
• Captain James Cook Memorial water jet on Lake BG
• Archery practice for Lockie
• Dinner dates with friends
• Eric's visit
• Canberra Deep Space Communication Complex
• Brownies for Maeve
• Meeting the neighbours on Hayball
• Lawrence's trip to Sydney for school camp, including a ZooSnooz program at Taronga Zoo.
• Weekend in Sydney for an Exchange Teacher's Conference, including a harbour cruise

Much more to come in the next few weeks as we wrap up Term 1 at school at head to the North Island of New Zealand.  Look out Hobbiton here we come!

- Lawrence

Mad Dash To The Bridge On The River Kwai: Update for Saturday, 19 January 2013

After getting foiled earlier in this trip in my attempt to see the BOTRK, I wasn't going to be denied on my final day in Bangkok.


I took the early morning tourist train to the bridge and the Nam Tok Waterfall. A pretty good deal for 120 baht (around $4 US).  While we only spent 25 minutes or so at the site of the bridge, it was still thrilling to see the real bridge that features in one of my favourite movies of all time (I recently saw it on the big screen back home in October or November).  As it turns out, the real item is made of metal not wood and only the middle section of the bridge was destroyed by the Allied forces and not the whole bridge as shown in the film.  Here's a video of a bridge crossing (not my own) and the flyer of the trip that I took.

- Lawrence

One Week In Ko Chang: Update for the Week of 13 - 18 January 2013

Beach at our front door. Infinity pool. Thai massages. Great local cuisine. Banana pancakes. Breakfast buffet. Runs on the beach.  Kayaking. Snorkeling/Fishing cruise. There were a few of our favourite things at KB Resort in Ko Chang, Thailand.

Here's a shot of the pool and our lodging - we're the cabin on the far right with the turquoise roof.  The place was so relaxing that I couldn't even muster the energy to write this blog...hence the fact that this entry is being written nearly 3 months after the fact!

A highlight for the kids was taking an hour long elephant ride at the Ban Kwan Chang elephant sanctuary.  After bathing the elephants in the river, we jumped on for 60-minute tour of the jungle in the capable hands of our mahouts.  We finished off by feeding the elephants bruised bananas and whole pineapples.

- Lawrence

Stuck At The Border With You: Update for Friday, 11 January 2013

After long sweaty days at Angkor, everyone was looking forward to some relaxing on the beach in Thailand.  The only obstacle to overcome - getting there!  

We hired a mini-bus for the trip and, while the route was long it was fairly comfortable the one massive fly in the ointment was the Thai-Camobian border.  

We waited for hours in Poipet-Aran as the line moved hardly at all.  The only way to speed up the process was to pay one of vultures standing to the side of the line to get you to the front of the queue.  Apparently there was some number system based on a slip of paper that you were to pick up upon arrival in the line but there were no instructions to that effect anywhere to be found.  As we waited and waited and waited and waited...and waited for about three hours or more we questioned our decision to travel overland instead of flying.  Were the $ savings really worth this hassle?  As it turns out, the problem was that there were only 2 customs officials checking the passports of foreigners and there were hundreds of people in line.  That and the queue jumpers who made everyone else wait just a little bit longer.

In the end, we made it over the border and then to the Ko Chang ferry on time.  We arrived at our destination - the KB Resort - after check-in but we secured our room nonetheless and settled in for a good night's sleep. 

- Lawrence

Final Day At Angkor: Update for Thursday, 10 January 2013

Today was our last day at Angkor.   Seeing as we'd seen most everything we really wanted to see, this was an opportunity to revisit some temples of particular interest and focus on putting the photographic tips I'd picked up during the workshop a few days earlier.  Lockie and Maeve had had their fill of Angkor so Eric and I left them with Meghan at the Lotus Lodge pool.  It was a full day - 8:00 am to 6:00 pm - with stops at (in this order):

• Phnom Bakeng - the temple mountain with the great sunset views of Angkor Wat
• Bayon 
• Ta Prohm
• Baphuon
• Terrace of the Elephants
• Terrace of the Leper King
• Bayon (redux)

The final stop at Bayon was so I could get a few "magic hour"photos in the warm light of the sunset.  I got a few decent shots but the highlight for me was sitting at the temple and soaking in the atmosphere. As I did so, I struck up a conversation with a young Dutch photographer.  As we spoke, from out of nowhere came the sounds of Bach's Cello Suite No. 1 as played by a musician hidden out of sight.  We both looked at each other, nodded and parted ways.  I sat down after a few steps to enjoy this serenade to a wonderful trip.  Knowing that Eric and the tuk tuk driver were waiting, i wandered off as the music filled the air.  A perfect end to a memorable trip to the temples of Angkor.

- Lawrence

More exploring at Angkor: Update for 8 & 9 January 2013

Rested and ready to tackle Angkor again, we spent the next three days doing just that.

Tuesday, 8 January 2013
Meghan and I had a great time at Banteay Srei last when we visited in 2002 so we were excited to get back.  Sadly, this tiny, intricately decorated temple is a hint of what's to come as Angkor gets more crowded.  The middle of the temple complex is closed off from visitors and they've set up a path for guests to follow marked with "Possibility of Visit" signs and monitored by APSARA guards.

When we arrived at about 10:30, the temple was crawling with tourists all falling over themselves in the cramped quarters around the inner temple.  This was such a far cry from the relatively sparse number of visitors during our last trip that we grumbled about the good old days under our breath and headed off to the Landmine Museum on the road back to town.

The Cambodia Landmine Museum was developed by Aki Ra, a former child soldier who's dedicated his later life to clearing land mines and helping those affected by the damage mines cause.  It has a huge collection of deactivated mines, interesting displays related to landmines, and a video showing Aki Ra's work.  It's a small space but well worth a visit if you're at all curious about how landmines have ravaged the land and people of Cambodia.

After our arrival in Angkor, we visited Banteay Kdei before heading home.

Wednesday, 9 January 2013
At long last, it was time to visit Angkor Wat, the most famous of all the temples of Angkor.  We'd purposely left this one to the last few days of our trip because one guidebook suggested that seeing it might make the others pale by comparison.  That was not the case, however.  It suffered from some of the same problems that we encountered at B. Srei.  The freedom to explore had been minimized and there were places you could not go (namely some of the higher parts of the temple).  Also, now there were queues for the stairs that took you up to some of the temple areas.  Oh, and it was very crowded, too.  In the end, Angkor Wat seemed underwhelming.

We hustled off from there to see the tiny Ta Nei, drawn by the promise of fewer people and unrestored ruins.  It lived up to its promise and we spent an hour or so exploring this crumbling temple with only one or two other guests.  When we needed a break, we played Cambodian hacky sack or, as it's called in Cambodia, saiee.  Here's a video of the game in action and one of the implements used for game play:

We liked the game of saiee so much that Lockie bought a dozen or so of the birdie-type items to play with at school and home.

- Lawrence

A Day in the Countryside Photo Workshop: Update for Monday, 7 January 2013

Meghan purchased a new digital SLR just before our trip overseas.  While at the Lotus Lodge, we saw a pamphlet for a photo tour/workshop offered by Eric Devries.  Seeing as the price included two participants, we both set out early Monday morning to check out the countryside and hope to capture some interesting shots.

Eric was an amiable guide who provided us with some great tips for our photos and served as an excellent guide through some small, rustic villages.  You can see more info about his tours and work at his website.  Here's one of Eric's shots from a collection related to slaughterhouses he told us a lot about when we were together:

Overall, the day's experience was outstanding.  Meghan and I needed a break from the temples and were eager to see what life was like on the outskirts of Siam Reap.  Also, the kids needed a day to chill out and swim in the pool.  Luckily, Eric was up for holding the fort and breaking up any squabbles.

As is the custom while I update this blog, I don't have any pictures on my computer to add.  Don't hold your breath waiting for them but they might appear in the future.

- LH

Tomb Raider and Temple Run at Angkor: Saturday, 5 January & Sunday, 6 January 2013

After spending a few fun days in the city of Siem Reap, we figured it was time to take in the real reason for our visit to Cambodia - heck, the reason for almost every tourists visit to Cambodia! - the temples of Angkor.

We secured two tuk-tuks and, after purchasing our 7-day pass (good for any seven days over a month long period and not seven consecutive days as we originally thought), headed to Bayon.  the temple with 216 massive smiling faces.  A few of the faces can be seen in the photo to the left.

After viewing just this one temple, it become quite clear that several things had changed since we last visitied Angkor.  Here's a short list:

• Tour buses: Large tour buses carrying 30 to 40 passengers are omnipresent in Angkor now and Meghan and I don't recall seeing one such bus when we there here 10 years ago.
• Larger crowds:  Not surprisingly, if there are tour buses around, there will be more people.
• A focus on the Small Tour and Grand Tour:  Last visit we just hired a tuk-tuk driver on the street for $10/day and we went wherever we wanted - to the temples, to town, to the hotel, and what not.  Now, you basically pay for an itinerary with a set price.  Deviation from the itinerary come at a cost...as we'd see tomorrow.  
• More restrictions at the temples themselves:  The more popular temples - namely Banteay Srei and Ta Prohm - have suggested routes indicated with signposts - humorously labeled "Possibility of Visit" - and some areas roped off to limit access and/or organize photo ops.  For instance, the whole centre section of Banteay Srei is out of bounds and both the Tomb Raider and Alligator Trees at Ta Prohm are roped off.  All photos now include pictures of the ropes and the surrounding wooden walkways.

While much has changed, the temple complexes are so large it was always possible to find some peace and quiet.  Many times, I just turned a corner and found a spot with on one around.  The tranquility didn't last long, as a general rule, but some solitude is better than none.

After Bayon, it was off to Ta Prohm - the temple that was more-or-less left as it was found - jungle covered.  Several scenes from the Angelina Jolie film Tomb Raider were filmed here (as well as at other Angkor sites, including Angkor Wat).  To the left is a bit of the action filmed at Ta Prohm.  The Tomb Raider tree is the one that Jolie steps toward before picking the flower and falling into...Pinewood Studios.

After a long hot day of exploring, Meghan, Lockie and Maeve headed off to the Lotus Lodge while Eric and I took in Preah Khan.  The tuk-tuk driver was reluctant because PK is on the grand tour but we'd only signed up for the small tour...yada, yada, yada.  Eventually, he relented and we drove up to PK for views that were very similar to the much more famous Ta Prohm.  In fact, the back of PK sports two large criss crossed trees that have overtaken the outer temple wall and this is quite a striking image, perhaps more compelling than the Alligator Tree at Ta Prohm:

On Sunday, we took a morning elephant ride at Bayon - 15 minutes on the elephant's back as we circumnavigated the temple of Bayon.  It was a bit tricky to get into the bench on the elephant's back and the drivers were surly but, overall, it was a lot of fun.

After our ride, we embarked on the Grand Tour with stops at:

• Preah Khan: ...again.  Meghan, Lockie, and Maeve wanted to see what they'd missed
• Neak Poan: a group of pools virutally empty of water and fenced off to enable restoration efforts.  Nothing to see here.  Move along
• Ta Som: another temple with a lot of jungle covered remains
• Pre Rup:  a pyramid-shaped temple that offered us views of the East Baray (reservoir).

As a general rule, the temples on the Grand Tour and less busy than the more famous ones - Angkor Wat, Bayon, and Ta Prohm - on the Small Circuit.  Fewer people meant that we were able to more easily play our new favourite game...Temple Run.  Inspired by the app of the same name, we would run around the temples chasing after one another.  The last person to be spotted was the winner.  The uneven footing - there were fallen stones and tree roots all over the place - made the game tricky but, I'm happy to say, no injuries were suffered as we played.  Phew!

With two days down, we'd seen a lot.  We were holding out on viewing Angkor Wat, however.  The Lonely Planet guidebook we were using suggested leaving it until the end so the other, less impressive temples didn't all seem underwhelming.

Each day's temple visits were followed up with dinner at the Lodge, a swim in the hotel pool, and some reading and relaxing.  Tired out by our exploring, we were generally in bed by 9:30 or 10:00 pm.  The more sleep we got, the more ready we were to face the next day's adventures.

- LH

Silk Farming and the Best Khmer Cooking Class Ever: Friday, 4 January 2013

We started today's adventure with a tour of the Angkor Silk Farm.  The 40-minute tour was very informative and interesting.  We saw the production from the growth of the silk worms, their feeding of mulberry bush leaves (that's all they eat, apparently), their spinning of a cocoon in preparation for a metamorphosis that never happens.  The worms are killed by sunlight before they can escape their cocoons and become moths.

Once the worms are dead, the silk thread from the cocoon is worked with in a variety of ways.  Ultimately, it's separated into raw (cheap) and fine (expensive) silk that is woven into the scarves, bags and what not that are sold in the Artisans Angkor shop.

We really enjoyed the tour as it gave us a newfound appreciation for all the effort that went into the making of the silk products we saw sold around town.

After a light lunch at our new favourite restaurant, we hit the Paper Tiger for our cooking school.  This was one epic event.  It started humbly enough with each of us - Lockie, Maeve, Meghan, and myself - choosing an item from the restaurant menu.  Then the adventure began.  We walked a block or two over to the old market where our guide/chef pointed out all the ingredients that we would be using in the creation of our dishes.  We didn't buy anything - all the items were pre-purchased and waiting for us at the restaurant - but we did see how it would be bought.  Next, we started the food prep.  This took almost two hours!  We cut, ground with a mortar and pestle and sliced all of the ingredients that would go into our dishes.  Once the cooking finally got started, we were tuckered.  Our task master chef insisted that we all work the mortar and pestle for what seemed like hours, until the ingredients were a fine paste and not a lumpy substance.  In pairs our group members - we were joined by three folks from England - entered the kitchen and cooked up our meals over the hot gas stovetop.

At long last, everyone's meals were done and ready to eat.  With 7 people at the small table and 2 dishes per person, the table was chockers.  Seeing as it was nearly 4:30 by the time we ate - 3.5 hours after the start of the class - we all eagerly tucked into our meals.  Dessert came in the form of a somewhat disappointing pumpkin custard treat (chosen by Maeve) that was tasty but unnecessary as we were all so wedged we could barely eat a spoon or two of it.  In the end, this epic experience was a lot of fun and, dollar for dollar (it cost $13/person), probably the best value outing we've had on this trip...and possibly in years!

As has been the custom in SR, we hit the pool for a relaxing swim before bed.  The temples were on tap for tomorrow.

- LH

Welcome to Siem Reap: Thursday, 3 January 2013

We were a bit worn out from yesterday's long travel experience and we didn't want to push the kids too hard so today was set aside for a bit of an explore in Siem Reap.

We hopped on a tuk tuk and rode it into the downtown area, home to the old market (pictured to the left) and Pub Street.

Of particular interest for us was finding a good place to eat and a cooking school.  As it turns out, we hit the exacta.  We wandered over to Artisans Angkor and found handmade silk garments and much more.  The silk comes from a silk farm just outside of town and the shop offered a free shuttle and tour.  We signed up for tomorrow's outing to the farm and wandered down the street.  While walking we had a menu thrust in our hand by an upbeat and persistent hostess who insisted she had the best food in town.  We sat down in an effort to test her claim.  Turns out she was bang on.  The lemon shakes for $1 were amazing and the fried squid with pepper - whole, green peppercorns on the vine! - was excellent.

With our bellies full we set off to find the Tigre de Papier Cooking Class and find it we did in the back of the Tigre de Papier restaurant (duh).  We signed up for the tomorrow's afternoon class and headed home to hit the pool at our home base, the Lotus Lodge on the edge of town.

Playing in the large pool provided a much needed respite from the hot (32 degrees or so) and humid conditions.  The two balls we'd bought in the market earlier in the day allowed us to play catch and a modified version of beach cricket.  Fun was had by all.

- LH